It's a mishmash of cultures for Acne Studios this Fall/Winter 2019. The Swedish label made our jaws drop in their men's and RTW collection that debuted on Paris Fashion Week, then gave us chills. There's nothing common in this new collection; pops of orange with cowhide printed fur trousers strutted down the runway; a cowhide trench coat easily became the hottest item in the bunch. The same pattern is seen on pockets and other small details that easily warms the heart and makes us think of cosy nights laying down on fur rugs. At least, that's it to us.
The colours are all hints of yellow, but the brand threw off cool shades of grey in wool to balance off the eye-piercing palette. Then, there's gingham in earthy hues, beautifully adorned by opaque flower cases in pockets. Subtle tones of greens peek underneath before it gives way to a more organic tone of chocolate and tan. We loved the loose drape, the waist cinches on jackets, the holographic shirts, and of course, the snakeskin printed leather jackets (with coordinating pants) which are to die for.
Creative director Jonny Johansson took advantage of a fresh perspective – being located in a semi-isolated place from the busy city of Stockholm – to put together a collection of counter-culture. Here, somehow, you'd see a status, or a state of mind you can relate to. Psychedelic swirls, oversized polos and snake-effect coats lingered around the mid-century Bohemian era. Half-length boots and cow-print trenches where inspired from farmers, high-waisted leather pants were taken from carpenters, and the chevrons in Lurex were inspired from vintage soccer jerseys.
How do you put together the academic, the athletic, the free-spirited, and the nature-bound in one place? On a runway. Here, Johansson cleverly takes a page of various statuses and cultures then morphed it together, allowing each way of living to thrive and survive – in the language of fashion, of course. This hidden message behind the menswear collection is just as powerful as the designs themselves.
The brand's RTW did not fail, either. For the women, it was the other way around; the sombre colour of greys and blacks pervaded the scene with emphasized shoulders and sleeves, beautifully draping trousers and smart leather jackets that falls nicely to the thigh. A pop of colour emerges with the navy blue and the stunning tan, still in that glossy, vinyl look. If f there's anything that grabbed our hearts in the first second, it had to be that sexy, neck-plunging coordinates in olive, which is a perfect formal-wear for the unconventional, or the slinky coal-black suit and pants, which mesmerized us with the way it falls on the model's body. Blues and reds were also present in this F/W series, where a gorgeous side-buttoned one piece in a floral motif becomes one of our favourites. The yellow and red oriental version becomes a nice pop of colour before it blurs into another narrative of cooler palettes.
In this collection, oversized was the goal. High slits, semi-torn stockings and large damask prints; everything spoke power dressing – to be bold, sharp, and able – and this 2019 F/W season, Acne Studios definitely echoed the message strongly.